Mari Wells Coyle

Mari Wells Coyle
Mari Wells Coyle, Winemaker l photo by Freda Banks photography

Food

Food is just as often the inspiration for wine pairings as wine. I have been enjoying wonderful summer dishes that create a thirst for wine. Recently, I attended a winemaker dinner with Il Fornio Restaurant. There was one pairing that I especially enjoyed. It was Prosciutto di Parma e Pere. Prosciutto di Parma topped with thinly sliced Red Bartlett pears, watercress, shaved parmesan; drizzled with a lemon infused extra virgin olive oil.  It was the best pairing that I have yet enjoyed with my 2008 Viognier from David Girard Vineyards. But, what makes it such a great pairing? A deconstruction will allow me to share how this worked so well.

First the primary flavor, Prosciutto. It's salty and has a flavor that resembles the parent pig. It's thinly sliced, translucent, so it doesn't conflict with the body of wine. It's also usually served at room temperature which is how I enjoy most pairings. The saltiness in the ham will enhance the flavors of minerality in the wine, while the touch of sliced pear will accompany the aromatic lift enjoyed in the Viognier. A slight sweetness to the pear compliments the dry style of wine. A hint of slightly bitter watercress provides a relief to the wine that allows it to be full and expand in the mouth. And cheese....yum. The Parmesan cheese actually enhanced the saltiness and added some earthy flavors that accentuated the floral aromas of the Viognier. The cheese also being fairly pH neutral, allowed the acidity of the wine to come forward. Lastly, the touch of lemon infused olive oil provided a punctuation that paired will with the citrus components in the wine.

When you can break down each step of the pairing in this way, it can help to understand how to build it up  and create the next pairing.

Wine in Food and Wine Pairing

Before I get to the good stuff, the meat of food and wine pairing, I would like to make some notes on wine. The thought of food and wine pairing is often an after thought or a convenience. Commonly it’s what we have on hand that will go best with what we are serving. Like wine and cheese, such a classic pairing, but as I’ve learned when I dive into wine and cheese pairing some wines and cheeses really don’t do each other justice. However, thoughtful pairings will melodically draw out subtle nuances in the other. As we discuss pairing food and wine we must think about both. I am a bit biased about the wine, given my livelihood. There are so many choices with wine and so many experiences that involve wine that make it difficult to begin. I have chosen to start with what seems natural to me, The Season. During the late summer I choose wines that will pair well with what is fresh in the garden, ripe at the farmers market, and too beautiful to resist.  For, it’s my love of food that has really made me fall in love with wine. Much of what I am drinking now in late summer season are beautiful whites, some Rose and very fresh reds. I have been enjoying Viognier on a hot weekend after a long day of chores around the house and I’ve been drinking Pinot Noir as the cool air begins to fall to the evening ground around me enjoying dinner near the lawn. I think choosing wines that will go well with fresh food that takes minimal time out of our busy summer day to prepare is the best place to start this time of year. I recommend that you find a few wines that you enjoy with fresh salads, grilled burgers and meats, and other fresh ingredients. Wines that I’m thinking about pairing this month: Rhone whites and blends, Rhone Rose, Sauvignon blanc, Grenache and Grenache based blends, Mourvedre, and Pinot Noir.