Mari Wells Coyle

Mari Wells Coyle
Mari Wells Coyle, Winemaker l photo by Freda Banks photography

My style


On an airplane flying from a consulting project, my thoughts turned toward style. The airline magazine was curbing my impatience for the one hour bumpy flight.  Inside was an article about a new niche pattern producer for hand made clothes. It drew me in as I thought back to summer break as a teenager working with my Aunt, a seamstress and designer. I helped her with basic alterations while sipping tea in the front of her old Victorian home in Portland, Oregon. All day busy clients would drop their beautiful clothes to be fitted just right. My aunt, nearly 6 feet tall, wore a measuring tape around her neck and a pair of scissors like a necklace. Her long thin hair in a messy bun on top of her head.  She could make a pattern from scratch in an instant, later developing a clothing line.  She helped me design a few custom pieces that I got to take back home, some of which I still have-including the dress shown below. I really enjoyed making my own clothes, I could choose every aspect from fabric to fit.



I can still hear my mom insisting that I was "always looking for something that didn't exist," with regards to style. I thought about that for a minute on the airplane and began to chuckle. Of course! I am always looking for something that doesn't exist. In front of me is an adventure connecting food and wine in a way never done before.

My artistic approach to winemaking is unique in the same way that I'm always looking for something that hasn't been done, or to do it in a different way.  Whether it's an expression from an extreme vineyard site or a blend of sites to create a wine with personality; my winemaking philosophy allows the source of the fruit to inspire style that's unique. When I love a vineyard site, my passion is infused in the bottle and my style is created. Similar to my experiences making clothes, I enjoy every aspect from the vineyard to the table.  I believe that the best wines are beautifully expressed with a variety of flavors.

My best wines are yet to come and I look forward to sharing them with you at the table. Thanks for joining me!




Weeknight delight

An evergreen, Rosemary
is an herb for all seasons.
Rosemary and coffee salt crusted filet mignon

Petit filet mignon
2 T ground coffee
3 t  chopped rosemary
1 t salt
1 t pepper
 pinch of paprika

For the filet mignon, rub with a touch of paprika, then layer the coffee, rosemary, pepper and salt.

Broil in 400 degree oven for 3-4 minutes on each side, or until medium rare. Serve immediately while hot.

Winemaker's notes:

I chose filet cut for this because it's so tender and succulent. The flavor is beautiful and doesn't command much tannin in the wine being paired to cut the fat. A filet mignon complements elegant wine styles and wines with a bit of age. I paired this with my library reserve Confluence Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon made in 2003. The wine is a unique expression of Sierra Foothill fruit at 3,300 feet elevation. The layers in this wine with the bright aromatics are very unusual and exiting! This dish was inspired by the paprika notes in the wine, indicating perfect ripeness of the grapes at harvest.

I love blending flavors in the kitchen, just like wines. When I'm blending wines, I look for each of the components to bring an authentic expression to the blend. I want the wine to be enjoyed at the table for hours as aromatics change and evolve.



 More on layering aromas:

A fragrance manufacturer, Jo Malone, has a line of  natural fragrances inspired to layer and create your own unique signature scent. I layer wild fig and cassis with pomegranate to get a perfect balance of spice, earthiness, and fruit. I think of this fragrance blend as 'Mourvedre' because it reminds me of Mourvedre vines at harvest time. I feel great when I wear it, like being in the vineyard-my favorite place.

Inspired by Boeuf and Rose

This past week I was helping a client with a Rose bottling. We bottled two types of Rose and I was thrilled about their differences. Over the weekend, my mom was elaborating over a cooking show she'd watched with Beef Roulades stuffed with aromatics of fennel, onion, celery, and carrot. We discussed this recipe for several days, further manipulating the recipe that had grabbed her attention. We tried to look up the recipe without success. Finally, we referenced Julia Child's Art of French Cooking and knew we had to sit with a glass of wine to digest it. We were drinking Vin Gris when we decided that we'd combine Julia's recipe with the fennel stuffing that my mom had witnessed. I wanted to welcome some new friends to our home with a delicious pairing. I was inspired to try the aromatic beef roulades with the newly bottled Rose. I thought that fennel stuffed slow cooked beef would bring out the beautiful aromas in the wine. Since Rose is made by blushing the juice with with red skins, it usually has a nice structure. Depending on the grape variety chosen by the winemaker, the wine can actually have quite a bit of tannin and weight- perfect with Boeuf.

Unfortunately, my Mom had to leave before I could prepare this one for our guests.  So, Mom, here is is...

We stuffed pounded beef (best to have eye of round)  into 1/8 inch pieces and stuffed it with sautéed fennel, onion, carrot, and celery. We almost followed the directions in the Julia Child cookbook, but not exactly. We did use rendered goose fat to brown the roulades, which was delicious! Then, we added goose stock and Rose to deglaze the pan and simmer. I made an herb bouquet with California bay leaf, an herb and spice blend, and some thyme.  I put all the herbs into cheesecloth and tied with twine.  whole cast iron pan went in the oven for 1.5 hours with the lid on and basting often. It came out tender and very aromatic! We served this over cauliflower mashed with butter, sour cream, and salt.

I decided to add a flavor bite experiment. I added a hint of paprika to roasted beets with a side of honey. Yummy! Recipe developing here for sure...Beet salad with smoked paprika honey dressing.  Perfectly unexpected.

As for the pairings, we tasted 3 different Roses with the dish and a youthful Cabernet that I made over 10 years ago.

The pairings were delightful! The beet bite was delicious with the Cabernet and the Rose and boeuf was an aromatic coupling.

We enjoyed our evening with our friends and while we discussed wine we also learned about ducks and cats and witnessed our friends wounds from extreme duck training. Sounds like duck dynasty might need a call...

Always up for a sensory adventure, I found this recipe is a great base for aromatic wine pairings. Next time, I will choose different herbs for the herb bouquet to match the wine of choice.




Feels like Spring


First blooms

California native, Yarrow, is drought tolerant and creates beautiful living bouquets.
Back in California, with a bit of moisture behind us and warm sunny days, it is starting to sound like spring. The birds are singing, welcoming the morning, and night falls to the sound of a few lonely, yet ambitious frogs.  I've been waiting for spring. New growth of grapevine shoots,  delicious and tender herbs emerging, and the wines from fall's harvest that are bottled and ready to undergo their journey in the bottle.  I look forward to long productive days in the garden and taking my laptop outside to continue my writing under the stars. I enjoy the longer days to pull some weeds in the garden and have a glass of wine before sunset. Life eases into summer through spring.  I love the time with my family gathering at the outdoor table for dinner amidst football toss on the lawn, enjoying an outdoor shower after a bike ride, weekend evenings at the fire pit, and cooking garden to grill. I'm also excited to share some of my recipes and wine pairings that I've been developing.


What do you love about spring?
I love to hear from you!

Amor de Mexico

This Valentine's day, I want to share my slow cooked Chocolate Chile Pork. I use this recipe for many occasions, but a slow paced meal is perfect for a day full of spontaneous surprises for your the ones you love. This recipe is very rich and delicious and when topped with cilantro, creates a perfect backdrop for a Grenache based blend. I like to pair a GSM (Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre) that will brighten the dark flavors of the chocolate with the wines floral and bright notes gained from the Grenache. The dark and spicy Syrah component will match the chili spice in the dish and pork is delightful with the earthy and rich flavors and textures of the Mourvedre.

This recipe is best in a slow cooker, but can also be done in the oven. For best results, cook it on low for about 6 hours. The smell in your home will lure your Valentine and set the tone for the wine you will be serving. Que sabroso!

I am writing this from Mexico. I came here to vacation with my family and visit some winemakers in the region.  This recipe reminds me of being here 19 years ago in the mountains of Chiapas. Up in the mountains, little fires are always burning to cook food and keep warm during the cold nights. This smoky wood fire scent, I have created here by using smoked salt. If you don't have smoked salt, use sea salt. Smoked salt is worth seeking out at specialty stores to add this distinct flavor without the effort of smoking the meat.
Mari at wine caves in Mexico

Chocolate Chile Pork

3 T unsweetened cocoa powder
2 T chile powder
1 T garlic powder
1 T cinnamon
2 t smoked salt
5 lb. boneless pork shoulder roast

Olive oil
limes
avocado
Tortillas
Cilantro



1. Mix all the dry ingredients in a medium bowl.
2. Press the mixture over the pork on all sides. Cover and refrigerate for 1-3 hours.
3. Add pork to crock pot with 2 cups of water. Optional: add a can of chipotle peppers to turn up the heat. Set crock pot on low for 4-6 hours adding more water if needed so that the meat doesn't dry out.
4. Shred the meat with 2 forks
5. Serve with tortillas and top with cilantro, avocado, onion, and a squeeze of lime.

Sip the wine, take a bite of the food, and another sip of the wine. Notice how the wine changes while you enjoy the combination of flavors and a romantic evening.

Que Rico!
Beautiful colors of Mexico


Restaurant life

My friends, John and Gina, own a restaurant called Cafe Mahajaic in Lotus, California.  I have always loved how this restaurant comes alive inside an old general store built during the gold rush. The original window coverings made of heavy metal open at 5pm as the space made of old brick and mortar lights up and smells so delicious. Recently,  I had a chance to get some experience in the kitchen and learn a few tricks from the pros. When I arrived at the restaurant, John had a long list of things for me to do which included: preparing fresh ingredients for unique salads and making and preparing desserts.





Mounds of romaine! Tip for large parties, use a bucket of cold water and dunk the whole head into the water multiple times to get it clean, then use a knife to extract the white stem in the middle of each leaf, chop up the leaves into bite size, and toss them into the salad spinner.


 Braiding biscotti dough is not as easy as it sounds, but John believes that braiding it allows more air to reach it and cook more thoroughly. After brushing an egg wash over the braid,  bake it for about 25 minutes and cut it into thin slices. The slices go back into the oven until just perfectly crunchy. These have pistachios in them which are delicious on top of the creme brûlée!  You could make the dough ahead and freeze it, just pop it in the oven when you have guests over for coffee.              

Espresso creme brûlée is so delightful! My favorite part about making this is massaging the vanilla bean into the sugar. I also love using a torch!  Since my husband is a firefighter, we have more torches than you could imagine. I think I need to make creme brûlée for my sweetie this Valentine's. Working with food really is almost as fun as working with wine. I think it's the passion for food and wine that make these jobs so glamorous. I look forward to learning more from my restaurant friends! Thanks to John and Gina for welcoming me into their kitchen on a busy night to enjoy the pace of restaurant life. Cheers!


Rosé and peppercorns, a unique pairing coming together for spring

Blending trials begin this time of year, once the wines have settled down post-fermentation and the flavors are beginning to develop. Spring is on it's way and beautiful crisp whites and rosés will be released. I think of spring lamb, Easter and rosé to celebrate Spring.

Lots of my friends ask me 'how do you know what you taste in wine?' 

I have been tasting some Rosé blending trials this week. What a delight! The bright watermelon and cherry fruit with texture and weight from the red grapes. mmmm... so quenching! One thing I noticed in my trials was that a touch of heat emerged in some of the blends. This warming heat created was different from the heat of the alcohol in the wine, but rather a spiciness from the grape source. It made me think about the warming heat and sensation from some of the herbs that I've been cooking with lately, sage and rosemary. A pepper derivative that warms the wine and food.  I wanted to learn more about pepper to better describe it in my wine and food.  So, I did some research...



  • Pepper bushes grow similar to grapevines, on trellis. The berries are harvested at different times with different processes to produce the different color of peppercorns with varied flavor profiles.

  • Green peppercorns are harvested mid way through berry maturity and have a slightly mild flavor with less heat.

  • Black peppercorns are harvested just before the berry is ripe, drying to a black color. Very aromatic with the most pepper heat.

  • White peppercorns are harvested when the berry is ripe, but are soaked in water to shed their husks and dry to be white in color. This is a more complex flavor with a soft, lingering, and penetrating heat.

  • Pink peppercorns are harvested when the berry is ripe and come from a different type of tree than the others.  Since the white and pink peppercorns are harvested at full berry maturity, the flavors are milder and more sweet. Birds love eating ripe berries in the vineyard and in pepper growing farms. The sweeter the berry, the more the birds eat. Thus, making the white and pink peppercorns more scarce and expensive. Good to know!

Now, back to the Rosé... The blend that showed this warmth could be described by hints of white and pink peppercorns- the kind which are ripe with a bit of pepper that lingers and adds warmth to the wine. I can't wait to pair some of the wines with a bit of fresh cracked pink and white peppercorns. Another pairing in the making!